Ballroom shoes are a tortuous necessity. While they do make dancing "easier" with their slippery grip, finding the right pair can be a lifelong challenge.
I've worn the same two styles of shoes (Rhythm and Smooth, respectively) for 10+ years and I'm not planning on changing anytime soon. It took my 5 years to figure out which ones kept me from the far right side of the scale and I'm not going to take my chances on some new fangled pair.
Here's some hints on how shoes should fit:
For Men and Women
They should fit like a glove. Not SO tight that you have to struggle to get it on, but not loose in any way. They don't fit like athletic shoes or even a pair of closed-toe dress shoes, where there's room for a nice warm sock or the space of your thumb at the front of the shoes.
[Note: you WILL have a very skewed reality of "street shoe" sizing after buying dance shoes for a few years.]
Your First Pair
Go to a studio and try on dance shoes. Go to a store and try on dance shoes. Go to a competition and try on dance shoes. Go ask your friend to try on their dance shoes. Physically put on some kind of dance shoes. Try not to buy your first pair online.
Try different heel heights, fabrics, and styles. Walk around in them (on carpet – most shoe companies don't want you to press down the lovely suede soles until you have bought them). Walk, spin, jump, and keep them on until the salesperson asks you to take them off. Get a feel for what you like and what you don't.
For your first pair, get a practice shoe: a pair of shoes that can be worn for any kind of dance.
Ladies, there's the ever-popular sandal:
Or the practice/teaching shoe (only get this if you wear pants ALL THE TIME; it looks so dreadful with skirts):
If you're trying on leather shoes and they're a little tight width-wise, I wouldn't worry about it. With a few weeks, they'll stretch out to fit your feet and you'll never think about it again… until you wear that pair out and have to buy a new pair.
Guys, while there is a little difference in shank length, fabric, heel height, and throat placement, your shoes are SHOES. Just like your costume, they're black and boring. On the plus side, your foot costumes are usually 10x more comfortable than ladies' are, so… WINNING.
All of your shoes will look a lot like this:
Ladies' Rhythm and Latin Shoes
Your toes should reach the end of the shoe. You shouldn't see any of the shoe sticking out beyond your tootsies. If you can, try a different shoe. (We used to have to cut the tips of our shoes off until shoe manufacturers caught on. The flappy part is SUPER annoying when you're dancing AND pointing your foot.)
Are you a former ballet dancer? Like, within the last ten years? Are you under 30? Then, by all means, do the 3" heel. You probably have the balance to pull it off and the higher heel might help you start finding your heels without feeling like you're putting the back of your foot through the floor.
Are you anyone else? I'd go with 2.5" heel. For your sanity's and balance's sake.
Do you have a high arch and wicked point? These are the only reasons you should get a T-strap shoe. Otherwise, you're limiting your foot articulation and let's not do that, okay?
Ladies' Smooth Shoes
These are even harder to fit than Latin shoes because of the closed toe. TRY ON ALL THE STYLES. The vamp, width, rise, toe cup, heel placement, and EVERYTHING ELSE change enough from style to style where it just works better to try them all on and jump around and point and flex your foot and do a heel turn and mess about as much as you can in each one to see what works.
Again, if you have a high arch and a super point, I'd go for an arch strap (or those groovy clear bands).
On the other hand, if you don't have the strongest feet or ankles, get a pump and not one of these styles:
Vendors
In the Twin Cities? Check out Grand Jete on Grand Ave.
Looking for something on a budget? Try Dance Shoes Online.
Showtime Dance Shoes is my personal fave; try them online or at most NDCA competitions.
Happy Friday.
Riot and Frolic 
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